For full review and photos: http://gninethree.com/2013/10/28/bacchanalia-singapore-23a-coleman-street/
Made famous by their monthly Bacchanalia Brunch Series which took Singapore by storm in 2012, Bacchanalia Singapore has since found a permanent home in the main hall of the historical Masonic Club on Coleman Street. The space which holds up to 150 pax is decidedly intimate with dark wood paneling, a mix of plush burgundy-red lounge chairs and long communal turquoise leatherette couches, heavy drapes and ambient lighting, while a canopy of 400 handmade illuminated glass 'bubbles' that hang overhead takes center stage.
Neatly divided into four sections- Vegetable, Seafood, Meat and Dessert, the menu here at Bacchanalia is fluid and dynamic, as reflected by the effervescent natures of the young team that heads the kitchen. The trio- all previously trained at Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck represent what the food here at Bacchanalia really is- innovative, creative and refreshing.
From the Vegetable section of the menu, we tried the Amaretti Di Saronno $19, a classic Italian Butternut Squash and Amaretti pairing usually found as a ravioli filling. Visually arresting, the dish was a delightful mishmash of sweet and savory notes with an added acidic dimension from the drizzle of balsamic vinegar and pumpkin oil. And while it may appear dry, the sauce for the dish is actually deceptively encased in sumac powder- a beautiful yolk cooked precisely at 63 degrees.
Still from the same section, the French Onion Soup $20 (serves 2), takes an unusual turn from the regular look with the thick layer of melted gruyère on top. Instead, crispy cheddar nuggets, bite-sized homemade rye bread, ricotta cheese and of course caramelized white onions fill the bowl. The broth is served in a small teapot, allowing diners to have a more interactive experience with their food. And keeping to Executive Chef Ivan's detail to precision, the onions used in the stock of the broth is first caramelized at exactly 80 degrees for 3 whole days. The result is a tingling sweetness and depth of flavor with every sip.
From the Meats, Executive Chef Ivan pays tribute to our Singapore culture with his fusion dish of Foie Gras Satay $30. Bending boundaries once again, the sous vide Foie Gras is a myriad of textures and flavors from the first layer of tamarind gel with lemongrass and ginger before the final explosion of peanut satay sauce that has a hint of spice. Ingenious and indulgent, this one marries a well-loved French classic with our local delicacy.
Moving onto Seafood, the HD Scallops $36 was one of the most intriguing dishes to me that evening. While the succulent fresh scallops gently seared on the plancha was nothing out of the ordinary, presenting it in a bed of sous vide borlotti beans with a dust of cocoa powder was definitely a territory I have yet to venture into. And the composition worked. Somehow.
The last of our mains was a 48 HR Pork Belly $30 cooked in its brine for yes, 48hrs. Slow cooked till tender and later fried for a crisp crackling skin, the acidity of the braised red cabbage and pickled apples served alongside cut through the fattiness of the pork nicely, enlivening and balancing out all the elements.
Reaching the Desserts, our pick that night was the Pineapple Tatin $17 made from slow cooked Sarawak Pineapples in caramel. Exquisitely plated, this dessert had savory components of coriander fromage blanc and cardamom infused in the Vanilla ice-cream to counter-balance the intensely sweet thick pineapple caramel.
In short, the dining experience at Bacchanalia was nothing short of charming and captivating. Every dish was an adventure and a visual feast, the young 29 year old Executive Chef Ivan Brehm has befittingly earned his position.
Date of Visit: 2013-10-04