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2012-12-05
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For a complete coverage, please visit: http://www.epinosh.com/paul-maison-de-qualite-1889-ii-singapore/It coincides with my recent met up with J, when they just launched their new menu. I didn’t expect that I could taste a new set of dishes until it has been announced publicly. Though I am not convinced that it would delight me the way my mum’s version with Pandan, but I am more than happy to give it chance, if not to find out how well they have execute the science of Guestology especially after
http://www.epinosh.com/paul-maison-de-qualite-1889-ii-singapore/
It coincides with my recent met up with J, when they just launched their new menu. I didn’t expect that I could taste a new set of dishes until it has been announced publicly. Though I am not convinced that it would delight me the way my mum’s version with Pandan, but I am more than happy to give it chance, if not to find out how well they have execute the science of Guestology especially after all the bad reviews by many.They have been drawing big crowds since the day they opened, which I have never doubt. Despite the lapsed in service, I am still seeing people making beeline at its entrance after peak hours. The main dining hall was bustling with high tea enthusiasts – conversations echoing the room. J suggested we take one of the tables outside the restaurant for a quieter time, much to what I agreed. We managed to get one with the help of a waiter – polite (checked). Without spilt seconds, another waiter came with 2 sets of menu and giving us ample time to decide (checked).
I hold the menu in my hand with great anticipation. Unmistakably, it was given a face-lift with a range of newer creation – still the French classics but now, some with a local twist. New faces includes specialty sandwiches: Pan Bagnat Club (S$16.90); open sandwiches: Salade Crevettes Mangue (S$19.90), Croque Truffade (S$19.90) – a simple toast topped with cheddar cheese, Béchamel sauce, truffles & mushrooms which most suits anyone with a less complicated desire. Then comes the Haute dishes: Hachis Parmentier (S$23.90) - a dish of minced beef/chicken mixed in buttery pureed potatoes and tossed with onions & herbs. The kitchen spent laborious hours on the dish, peeling each hot boiled & roasted potatoes by hand and mashed. You probably may wish to try this high level dish the next time you visit Paul, it looks comforting though less elaborated.This time, a young lady dropped by to see if we are ready to order which I requested she check on us after a minute which she did so accordingly (checked). During the wait for the meal, glasses of water are served and refilled automatically (checked).
I am most curious to examine this new open sandwich to see if it is capable of spicing up my day. Having learned that the concoction took the team months to perfect, I am hoping that it passed the mark remarkably. Served with a handful of crisp seasonal side greens, this Tartine Poulet Curry (S$17.90) comes with a unique flavor rarely seen in a French bistro. Making a bold change to the regular Poulet Citron in the previous menu; this one has a nice but mild spicy marination. Though I find the coarsely chopped chicken meat a bit chewy and dry, the spices did distract my attention from the less attractive bird. The curry jelled quite well with the cheddar along with the crunchy diced zucchini and tomato, of which, the mass emits a strong and lingering flavor in each mouthful. Overall, the combination is a success for its balanced flavor, without a fierce domination. I was told that it has been well-received by many non-locals for its subtle curry taste. While it tasted good, I feel that the Campagne bread needs less toasting time, to avoid having a hard and edgy crust that bruised my gums. If you ever spotted me tearing – the underlying cause is not the curry, sure thing. But what warms me, is the hospitality that comes from the heart. This has never occurred nor I heard from others who have dined at Paul in the past, but today, I am having waitress coming up to me, asking if the food tastes good (checked).
J was seen enjoying the Pan Bagnat Niçoise (S$16.90) – a specialty sandwich made with Pain de Mie bread using tuna mayonnaise topped with rings of red onion, tomatoes and piling up high with fresh salad leaves and slices of boiled eggs. The burger appeared in its clean defining look, not a messy setup like a drenched American version. Accordingly, it pleases J who is won over by its fresh texture and natural taste, less obscuring. We selfishly eat our own dish, each singing in approval. We have nothing to complain about, if anything, it has to be the dessert.
Prominently pictured under the dessert section, I refused to flip the page, trying to nail down one Pandan treats. J gave a good laugh and left me with the decision rights. Should I point to my left or allow it to swift to the right, my eye ball swinging in pendulum. I had wanted a Pandan eclair but wish badly for the Pandan Millefeuille. J saved me from that ripping agony, chose the French puff pastry on my behalf. In less 5 minute, the Napoleon dessert arrived. My first impression – terrified. I felt intimidated by its unnatural green hue, the icing fondant has been awkwardly fabricated – simply a vanilla glaze. It left me wondering if the dish descriptions in the newspaper are reported correctly – the recipe has a Pandan-infused paste? Erm, we didn’t taste any Pandan flavor throughout, but a stronger gula melaka (palm sugar) custard cream, much to our enjoyment. I liked the puff pastry for its light, crumbly texture though not ultra flaky and stacked up with a thick layer of creamy paste in the middle. The cream is smooth but slightly over-candied and a bit weighed down. Unless you are a fan of gula melaka (palm sugar) treats, the Millefeuille Fraises will be a much better choice.
Undeniably, Paul never failed to charm the crowd with its traditional French cooking when they kept returning for those mouth-watering pies and pretty sweet patisseries. Its hard not to take a second look at them in the bakery window while making my takeaways. It is encouraging to note that for a business that spans 9 generations in history is accepting the notion that palate changes with time and cook closely with trend. With the big improvement in the overall service standard (I have “checked” many applaudable service point), I am sure they will win back some grouchy customers who had abandoned the brand after their first maiden try. I hope the service level will be this good in the new outlet at Ocean Financial Centre (Collyer Quay) which is slated to open in 2013, Q1. There and then, I would entrust myself to them whenever I needed a quick french meal.
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